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What
is the Better Cotton Initiative?
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is the largest cotton sustainability
programme in the world. We are truly a joint effort – encompassing
organisations all the way from farms to fashion and textile brands,
and civil society organisations – driving the cotton sector towards
sustainability. In the 2017-18 cotton season, we and our on-the-ground
partners provided training on more sustainable agricultural practices
to 2.2 million farmers in 21 countries – of those farmers, two million
gained a license to sell their cotton as Better Cotton.
Why
does the Better Cotton Initiative exist?
Supporting farmers is at the heart of our work and is the reason
for BCI’s existence. Cotton is a renewable resource, but its production
is vulnerable to poor environmental management and working conditions.
As stewards of the Better Cotton Standard System, our focus is on
providing training and learning opportunities for farmers to adopt
more environmentally, socially and economically sustainable production
practices.
What
is the Better Cotton Standard?
BCI manages the farm-level implementation of the Better Cotton Standard,
a holistic approach to more sustainable cotton production. Licensed
BCI Farmers produce cotton in a way that cares for the environment,
minimising the negative effects of fertilisers and pesticides, and
caring for water, soil health and natural habitats. This is what
we refer to as ‘Better Cotton’. BCI Farmers also commit to decent
work principles – conditions that support workers’ safety and wellbeing.
The Better Cotton Standard is not applicable to the cotton supply
chain.
How
much Better Cotton do BCI Farmers produce each year?
BCI Farmers produced 5.6 million metric tonnes of Better Cotton
lint in the 2018-19 cotton season*, on 5.7 million hectares (which
is more than the land mass of Belgium). This is enough cotton to
make more than 8 billion pairs of jeans. Currently, Better Cotton
accounts for 22% of global cotton production. *This volume includes
the three BCI recognised equivalent standards: CmiA (multiple African
countries), MyBMP (Australia) and ABR (Brazil). Farmers growing
cotton in line with these three standards can also sell their cotton
as Better Cotton.
Who
are the Better Cotton Initiative’s members?
At the end of 2019, BCI had more than 1,800 members spanning the
cotton supply chain – 168 retailers and brands, 1,585 suppliers
and manufacturers, 30 producer organisations, 42 civil society members,
and 17 associate members. You can find the updated list here.
Is
the Better Cotton Initiative competing with other cotton standards
around the globe?
Less than 25% of global cotton production is independently verified
as grown using more sustainable practices. BCI, organic, Fairtrade,
myBMP (Australia), ABR (Brazil), CmiA (multiple African countries),
and others work towards ensuring that all cotton is produced in
a more sustainable manner. We have recognised three other standards
as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard, eliminating duplication
and inefficiencies in the market. BCI supports farmers having the
ability to choose which farming system is best for them.
What
is the Better Cotton Initiative’s view on forced and child labour?
Unfortunately, child labour remains a challenge in some countries,
particularly when families are struggling to make ends meet. The
welfare of children and workers is always of paramount importance
– forced and child labour on cotton farms is unacceptable to BCI.
If either is discovered where Better Cotton is produced, it is considered
an incidence of non-compliance with BCI’s standard and is dealt
with immediately. We support farmers by helping them to understand
and respect national legal requirements, as well as the fundamental,
interrelated International Labour Organisation conventions on respecting
the minimum age for young workers (C138) and avoiding the ‘worst
forms of child labour’ (C182). BCI does not operate in countries
where forced labour is orchestrated by the government.
Considering
reports of forced labour abuses in the cotton value chain in the
Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China, what action is
BCI taking to address the situation and its presence in the region?
Sustained allegations of forced labour and other human rights abuses
in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China have contributed
to an increasingly untenable operating environment, and as of October
2020, BCI has, therefore, taken the decision to cease all field-level
activities in the region effective immediately, including capacity
building and data monitoring and reporting. In March 2020, BCI suspended
licensing and assurance activities in the XUAR, and as a result,
there is no new licensed Better Cotton coming from the region. Until
circumstances change, we will focus our efforts in China in the
eastern provinces where BCI has existing programmes: Hubei, Hebei,
Shandong and Gansu. For more information, click here.
Does
the Better Cotton Initiative promote genetically modified (GM) cotton?
BCI has adopted a position of being ‘technology neutral’ with respect
to GM cotton, and will neither encourage farmers to grow it, nor
seek to restrict their access to it. We aim to be a mainstream initiative
and target improvements across a range of important issues associated
with cotton farming on a large scale. Today, nearly three quarters
of the world’s cotton is grown with GM seeds. Therefore, if it is
legally available in the country of use and there is an overall
support package in place for farmers–which includes training and
access to a range of farming options–BCI allows the use of GM cotton.
It would be difficult to achieve our objective of making Better
Cotton a mainstream sustainable commodity if millions of farmers
were automatically excluded from our training and support.
Is
Better Cotton produced in Uzbekistan?
During the 2018-19 cotton season, the International Finance Corporation
(IFC) launched an independent sustainable cotton project in Uzbekistan
based on the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria, which are publicly
available to whomever wishes to consult or apply them. BCI is encouraged
by the progress that has been made through this project and has
started participating in IFC’s Sustainable Cotton Project Consultative
Council as an observer member, in order to encourage multi-stakeholder
dialogue. The Consultative Council is a multi-stakeholder forum
in Uzbekistan including the Uzbekistan Government, relevant line
ministries and local authorities. Over the coming months BCI will
increase its involvement in the IFC Cotton Project, participate
in a Decent Work Working Group, and engage with the Uzbekistan Government.
Once these activities are completed, BCI will determine if the appropriate
conditions are in place to start the launch of the BCI new country
start-up process.
In March 2020,
BCI set up an expert Task Force on Forced Labour and Decent Work
to review selected elements of the Better Cotton Standard System.
Based on this review, the Task Force produced recommendations to
improve the effectiveness of the system in identifying, preventing,
mitigating and remediating forced labour risks. Find out more and
access the full report here.
Is
the Better Cotton Standard System publicly available for use by
third-parties?
Yes. BCI welcomes the use, adoption or adaptation of its standard
system in cases where it can be used to drive the adoption of more
sustainable cotton farming practices. BCI conducts a Public Standard
Review Process at least every five years, which also enables third-parties
to contribute towards its further development.
How
do I know if the Better Cotton Initiative is credible?
BCI is a member of ISEAL Alliance, the global membership association
for sustainability standards. Only independently assessed, credible,
and robust standards are granted membership. BCI and its fellow
ISEAL members embrace the ISEAL Credibility Principles and comply
with ISEAL’s internationally recognised Codes of Good Practice.
How
is the Better Cotton Initiative funded?
BCI receives funding from three sources: earned income for services
delivered; grants and donations from private and public funders;
and volume-based fees and funding from brands. BCI Retailer and
Brand Members pay a fee based on the amount of Better Cotton they
source. These fees are channelled to the Better Cotton Growth and
Innovation Fund (BCI’s farm support programme) and matched by public
and private donations. These funds directly support training and
skill development for farmers around the world.
Visit
official website of Better Cotton Initiative
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