What
is the Better Cotton Initiative?
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is the largest cotton sustainability
programme in the world. We are truly a joint effort – encompassing
organisations all the way from farms to fashion and textile
brands, and civil society organisations – driving the cotton
sector towards sustainability. In the 2017-18 cotton season,
we and our on-the-ground partners provided training on more
sustainable agricultural practices to 2.2 million farmers in
21 countries – of those farmers, two million gained a license
to sell their cotton as Better Cotton.
Why
does the Better Cotton Initiative exist?
Supporting farmers is at the heart of our work and is the reason
for BCI’s existence. Cotton is a renewable resource, but its
production is vulnerable to poor environmental management and
working conditions. As stewards of the Better Cotton Standard
System, our focus is on providing training and learning opportunities
for farmers to adopt more environmentally, socially and economically
sustainable production practices.
What
is the Better Cotton Standard?
BCI manages the farm-level implementation of the Better Cotton
Standard, a holistic approach to more sustainable cotton production.
Licensed BCI Farmers produce cotton in a way that cares for
the environment, minimising the negative effects of fertilisers
and pesticides, and caring for water, soil health and natural
habitats. This is what we refer to as ‘Better Cotton’. BCI Farmers
also commit to decent work principles – conditions that support
workers’ safety and wellbeing. The Better Cotton Standard is
not applicable to the cotton supply chain.
How
much Better Cotton do BCI Farmers produce each year?
BCI Farmers produced 5.6 million metric tonnes of Better Cotton
lint in the 2018-19 cotton season*, on 5.7 million hectares
(which is more than the land mass of Belgium). This is enough
cotton to make more than 8 billion pairs of jeans. Currently,
Better Cotton accounts for 22% of global cotton production.
*This volume includes the three BCI recognised equivalent standards:
CmiA (multiple African countries), MyBMP (Australia) and ABR
(Brazil). Farmers growing cotton in line with these three standards
can also sell their cotton as Better Cotton.
Who
are the Better Cotton Initiative’s members?
At the end of 2019, BCI had more than 1,800 members spanning
the cotton supply chain – 168 retailers and brands, 1,585 suppliers
and manufacturers, 30 producer organisations, 42 civil society
members, and 17 associate members. You can find the updated
list here.
Is
the Better Cotton Initiative competing with other cotton standards
around the globe?
Less than 25% of global cotton production is independently verified
as grown using more sustainable practices. BCI, organic, Fairtrade,
myBMP (Australia), ABR (Brazil), CmiA (multiple African countries),
and others work towards ensuring that all cotton is produced
in a more sustainable manner. We have recognised three other
standards as equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard, eliminating
duplication and inefficiencies in the market. BCI supports farmers
having the ability to choose which farming system is best for
them.
What
is the Better Cotton Initiative’s view on forced and child labour?
Unfortunately, child labour remains a challenge in some countries,
particularly when families are struggling to make ends meet.
The welfare of children and workers is always of paramount importance
– forced and child labour on cotton farms is unacceptable to
BCI. If either is discovered where Better Cotton is produced,
it is considered an incidence of non-compliance with BCI’s standard
and is dealt with immediately. We support farmers by helping
them to understand and respect national legal requirements,
as well as the fundamental, interrelated International Labour
Organisation conventions on respecting the minimum age for young
workers (C138) and avoiding the ‘worst forms of child labour’
(C182). BCI does not operate in countries where forced labour
is orchestrated by the government.
Considering
reports of forced labour abuses in the cotton value chain in
the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China, what
action is BCI taking to address the situation and its presence
in the region?
Sustained allegations of forced labour and other human rights
abuses in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) of China
have contributed to an increasingly untenable operating environment,
and as of October 2020, BCI has, therefore, taken the decision
to cease all field-level activities in the region effective
immediately, including capacity building and data monitoring
and reporting. In March 2020, BCI suspended licensing and assurance
activities in the XUAR, and as a result, there is no new licensed
Better Cotton coming from the region. Until circumstances change,
we will focus our efforts in China in the eastern provinces
where BCI has existing programmes: Hubei, Hebei, Shandong and
Gansu. For more information, click here.
Does
the Better Cotton Initiative promote genetically modified (GM)
cotton?
BCI has adopted a position of being ‘technology neutral’ with
respect to GM cotton, and will neither encourage farmers to
grow it, nor seek to restrict their access to it. We aim to
be a mainstream initiative and target improvements across a
range of important issues associated with cotton farming on
a large scale. Today, nearly three quarters of the world’s cotton
is grown with GM seeds. Therefore, if it is legally available
in the country of use and there is an overall support package
in place for farmers–which includes training and access to a
range of farming options–BCI allows the use of GM cotton. It
would be difficult to achieve our objective of making Better
Cotton a mainstream sustainable commodity if millions of farmers
were automatically excluded from our training and support.
Is
Better Cotton produced in Uzbekistan?
During the 2018-19 cotton season, the International Finance
Corporation (IFC) launched an independent sustainable cotton
project in Uzbekistan based on the Better Cotton Principles
and Criteria, which are publicly available to whomever wishes
to consult or apply them. BCI is encouraged by the progress
that has been made through this project and has started participating
in IFC’s Sustainable Cotton Project Consultative Council as
an observer member, in order to encourage multi-stakeholder
dialogue. The Consultative Council is a multi-stakeholder forum
in Uzbekistan including the Uzbekistan Government, relevant
line ministries and local authorities. Over the coming months
BCI will increase its involvement in the IFC Cotton Project,
participate in a Decent Work Working Group, and engage with
the Uzbekistan Government. Once these activities are completed,
BCI will determine if the appropriate conditions are in place
to start the launch of the BCI new country start-up process.
In March 2020, BCI
set up an expert Task Force on Forced Labour and Decent Work
to review selected elements of the Better Cotton Standard System.
Based on this review, the Task Force produced recommendations
to improve the effectiveness of the system in identifying, preventing,
mitigating and remediating forced labour risks. Find out more
and access the full report here.
Is
the Better Cotton Standard System publicly available for use
by third-parties?
Yes. BCI welcomes the use, adoption or adaptation of its standard
system in cases where it can be used to drive the adoption of
more sustainable cotton farming practices. BCI conducts a Public
Standard Review Process at least every five years, which also
enables third-parties to contribute towards its further development.
How
do I know if the Better Cotton Initiative is credible?
BCI is a member of ISEAL Alliance, the global membership association
for sustainability standards. Only independently assessed, credible,
and robust standards are granted membership. BCI and its fellow
ISEAL members embrace the ISEAL Credibility Principles and comply
with ISEAL’s internationally recognised Codes of Good Practice.
How
is the Better Cotton Initiative funded?
BCI receives funding from three sources: earned income for services
delivered; grants and donations from private and public funders;
and volume-based fees and funding from brands. BCI Retailer
and Brand Members pay a fee based on the amount of Better Cotton
they source. These fees are channelled to the Better Cotton
Growth and Innovation Fund (BCI’s farm support programme) and
matched by public and private donations. These funds directly
support training and skill development for farmers around the
world.
Visit
official website of Better Cotton Initiative
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